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November 5-6
We arrived at the airport around 8 PM for our 10:11 PM flight. The airport experience was uneventful—until we reached the gate. Being a Spirit flight, the gate area was pure chaos. Boarding went smoothly until one passenger, denied an aisle seat in favor of a family with special needs, stormed up after the door had closed and demanded to get off the plane. The situation escalated when she accused the flight attendant of insulting her, misinterpreting his comment about “not straining her eyes” as offensive. Regardless, they reopened the door, she left, and we had to redo the safety demonstration before finally taking off.
We landed in Fort Lauderdale at 5:55 AM and faced a grueling 5.5-hour layover on barely any sleep. At least the terminal was quiet in the early hours, allowing us to spread out before the crowds arrived. We killed time by grabbing food before heading to our next gate. The flight to Barranquilla was uneventful—I drifted in and out of consciousness.
Upon arrival, immigration was straightforward but slow. The border agent warned us that our hotel was in a rough area and advised against walking around. Luckily, we were too exhausted to venture out, and the hotel itself was decent. We exchanged some pesos before stepping outside to find it pouring rain. Although Uber was available for about $7 USD, we opted for a $10 USD taxi waiting outside. After a 35-minute ride, we arrived at Hotel Genova Centro. While nothing special, it had a charming courtyard with a small pool and restaurant. The room was clean, but the shower was a disaster—I had to remove the showerhead just to get water out, making me question whether I had actually showered or just sponge-bathed. But for $34 USD, it was quiet and served its purpose. I crashed by 7 PM.
November 7
I woke up at 5:30 AM and waited for my friend to stir before heading to breakfast around 7 AM. Breakfast was a hearty spread of eggs with ham, rice and beans, fruit, rolls, coffee, hot chocolate, and juice. By 8:30 AM, we met our driver in the lobby and set off for Ciénaga.
Founded in 1529 by Spanish colonists, Ciénaga played a key role in Colombia’s colonial economy. In the 20th century, it became infamous for the Banana Massacre of 1928 when the Colombian army, under pressure from the United Fruit Company, violently suppressed a workers’ strike. This pivotal event in Colombian labor history even inspired Gabriel García Márquez’s One Hundred Years of Solitude.
Our driver warned us that there wasn’t much to see in Ciénaga, but we decided to go anyway. The town square featured some interesting architecture, but it was immediately clear that this wasn’t a tourist town—we stood out. Locals stared, some trying to get our attention, and after a brief five-minute stroll, we decided to move on to Minca.
Next stop: Finca La Victoria, one of Colombia’s oldest coffee plantations, nestled in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Established in 1892 by an English couple, Charles and Alice Bowden, the plantation spans over 1,223 hectares, with 217 dedicated to Arabica coffee. They still use original machinery powered by water from nearby streams, making it a living museum of traditional coffee production.
Our driver couldn’t make it up the steep driveway, so we trekked about 15 minutes uphill. At the top, we found a charming café serving sandwiches, cakes, locally brewed Nevada beer, and, of course, coffee. The plantation tour cost 25,000 COP and was incredibly informative. They demonstrated how gravity and water-powered systems process the coffee and even showed us a water-powered generator. Unfortunately, my friend became dizzy and had to sit out part of the tour. She still felt unwell at the end, so our guide found someone to drive us down to the main road where our driver was waiting (of course, for a fee).
From there, we headed to GHL Relax Costa Azul, a beachfront resort near Santa Marta. A little bougie compared to our last stay, it welcomed us with fresh juice and bellhop service. However, upon entering our room, we discovered the fridge was leaking water and not working. Luckily, maintenance responded quickly and fixed it.
For dinner, we dined poolside, enjoying a delicious sea bass with shrimp. I also tried a corozo margarita, which was just okay. Afterward, we grabbed a taxi to Santa Marta’s boardwalk for 40,000 COP (about 30 minutes away).
Santa Marta had big city chaotic vibes—loud music, packed streets, and sensory overload. After wandering through a market and along the boardwalk, we realized it wasn’t our scene and decided to retreat to our peaceful beach resort. Maybe I’m getting old, but the noise and congestion were too much. On the way back, we were grateful to have a driver because traffic was a mess—Colombian drivers are aggressive, and road rules seem more like suggestions.
Back at the hotel, we capped off the night with dessert, savoring the quiet atmosphere before heading to our room to research the next day’s adventures.
November 8
I woke up around 6:15 a.m. and relaxed until my friend woke up around 7 a.m. We headed to breakfast shortly after and were greeted with a buffet featuring a unique variety of foods. After eating, we set off for Taganga, a small fishing town north of our hotel known for its lively mix of tourists, bars, restaurants, shops, and excursion opportunities.
Without a solid plan, we hoped to catch a boat to one of the “secret” beaches. The moment we stepped out of the taxi, we were approached by a boating excursion company. We ended up securing a private boat to two secluded beaches for 550,000 COP for both of us—a solid deal compared to other shared tours, which were priced at 300,000 COP per person, including transportation. We liked the flexibility of leaving whenever we wanted, so it felt like the right choice.
The boat ride took approximately 40 minutes before we arrived at Playa Cristal, where we had the entire beach to ourselves. It was peaceful and secluded, just as promised. The clear water was inviting, though there was a fair amount of seaweed, and the bottom was quite rocky. A small, hidden restaurant was tucked away from view, along with a bathroom, but I wouldn’t necessarily trust eating there. There were no chair or umbrella rentals, and with very little shade (plus an abundance of crabs scuttling around), it felt more like an Instagram-worthy stop than a place to lounge for hours. After about an hour, we decided to move on to our next destination.
Bahía Concha was only a 15-minute ride away and was noticeably livelier, though not overcrowded. The moment we stepped off the boat, we were met with vendors selling everything from drinks and chairs to massages and food. We rented a chair for 10,000 COP and settled in to relax, but the competing music from different groups made it less than peaceful. On the plus side, we had some adorable four-legged visitors (stray dogs), though the crabs and praying mantises were less welcome.
Honestly, my younger self probably would have embraced the chaos, gotten a little drunk, and had a blast. But my current self—recovering from skin cancer removal surgery and with a low tolerance for loud music and constant sales pitches—just wasn’t feeling it. After a short dip in the water, we changed into dry clothes and returned to town, thanking our guide for the day.
For lunch, we stopped at Pachamama, a charming spot with great food and an inviting atmosphere. Given that we were in a fishing village, I highly recommend the fish and seafood. After our meal, we grabbed a taxi back to our hotel, where we enjoyed a few relaxing hours by the pool. When the skies turned gray, we headed back to the room to shower and unwind. The cooler weather made us opt for pajamas at dinner, embracing a cozy, laid-back evening. This so-called “relaxing” vacation has still been quite active, but today, we finally had a bit of downtime.
November 9
We started our day with breakfast before heading to the hotel’s beach area, where we lounged under an umbrella for a while. It was peaceful at first, but as more people arrived, so did the music. By midday, we returned to our room to pack and prepare for checkout.
Once we were ready to leave, we requested an Uber, but the driver called and demanded more money than the app had quoted. Not wanting to deal with the hassle, we had the hotel call a taxi instead. This turned out to be a great decision, as we ended up with possibly the best driver of our trip. He was incredibly kind, loaded and unloaded our bags, and even escorted us into the hotel upon arrival. The fare was 350,000 COP, and we tipped an extra 20,000 COP for his exceptional service.
Since our new hotel room wasn’t ready yet, we grabbed lunch at the hotel restaurant. Unfortunately, it was one of my least favorite meals of the trip—disappointing, especially considering Barranquilla is trying to position itself as a gastronomic destination. But after the 1 hour and 45-minute drive, we were too hungry to be picky.
At 3 p.m., we finally checked in. Later, we discovered that Decathlon, one of my favorite sporting goods stores, was nearby. The front desk advised against walking there, so we grabbed an Uber for 10,000 COP and found ourselves in a bustling mall. Unlike the dying malls in the U.S., this four-story shopping center was packed. The first three levels housed a variety of stores, while the fourth floor was entirely dedicated to restaurants.
We initially chose Porthos Steakhouse, ordered drinks, and then proceeded to wait… and wait. After 25 minutes without even placing a food order—while watching several other tables get served before us—I hit my breaking point. Hangry and annoyed, we paid for our sodas and left.
Our next choice, Il Forno, turned out to be a much better experience. It was quieter than the other restaurants, which all blasted music. I ordered a pasta dish served on a pizza crust—a unique concept, though not my favorite flavor-wise. However, the service was outstanding, easily the best we’d had so far, which was refreshing after the frustration at Porthos.
After dinner, we headed to the taxi area and made our way back to the hotel, wrapping up another eventful day in Colombia.
November 10
We woke up and headed to our free breakfast (yay for complimentary meals at every stay!). It was similar to the other buffets—plenty of options, though nothing particularly special. By 9 AM, we grabbed a taxi to the Barranquilla Zoo, where entry was 28,000 COP. The zoo itself was small but well-maintained, with shaded pathways and a good variety of animals. Though some enclosures were on the small side, the animals appeared content, and we managed to see most exhibits in about an hour. Visiting something animal-related has become a tradition on our international trips, so this checked that box!
Next, we took a taxi to the Malecón Puerta de Oro. The highlight was a vibrant food hall featuring an impressive variety of cuisine: sushi, BBQ, dumplings, desserts, Italian, pizza—you name it. We ordered from three different spots: a bun and dumpling sampler, ceviche, sushi, and fish croquettes. While the ceviche was excellent, the rest was mediocre, with the buns and dumplings being the most disappointing.
After eating, we walked outside to grab some photos at the Malecón before hopping in another taxi to Galería 72, a bustling tourist market. It’s a flea-market-style setup with booths selling similar merchandise at varying prices, so haggling was key. The market wasn’t air-conditioned, but fans helped keep it manageable. After scoring our souvenirs, we headed back to the hotel and made our way up to the rooftop pool for some relaxation. Unfortunately, the rain cut our pool time short, so we retreated to the bar to enjoy our complimentary drinks before heading to the room. I intended to just rest for a bit but ended up taking an hour-long nap—oops!
Around 5 PM, we took a taxi to Storia D’Amore, a charming restaurant with a heart-shaped archway, love locks at the entrance, and a cozy, romantic ambiance inside. This turned out to be our best meal of the trip: beef carpaccio, meatballs, salmon, lasagna, gelato, and chocolate cake. The service was fantastic, and the restaurant was a popular spot for celebrations. They even offered special décor options like rose petals and candles for anniversaries or light-up balloons for birthdays. Our total bill came to about 315,000 COP (approximately $75 USD), making it a perfect final dinner in Colombia. Afterward, we took a taxi back to the hotel and relaxed before our flights the next day.
November 11
We enjoyed our last hotel breakfast and took it easy before heading to the airport. The Uber ride took about 40 minutes, and then we began our long journey home. The flights were mostly uneventful, aside from a medical emergency on board. Fortunately, the passenger was able to walk off with EMTs upon landing. Finally, I arrived home, grateful to see my boyfriend and crawl into my own bed.
Final Thoughts
- We were warned multiple times not to walk around too much, and given the general feel of the cities, we stuck to taxis for safety. Luckily, in-town taxis only cost around 10,000 COP (~$2.50 USD), making it a cheap and easy way to get around.
- Colombia, especially in the areas we visited, had its share of dirt and grime. Some pockets were worse than others, and while not overwhelming, it was noticeable.
- The people were friendly, but very few spoke English. Having a basic grasp of Spanish was incredibly helpful.
- The beaches were nice, but far from the most beautiful I’ve seen. If pristine, picture-perfect beaches are your priority, Colombia might not be the best choice.
- Food was hit or miss. Some meals were fantastic, while others left much to be desired.
- Cash is king. While larger restaurants, malls, and hotels accepted credit cards, taxis and many small vendors operated on cash only. Be sure to carry enough pesos to avoid any hassle.
- The artisan market in Santa Marta had some vendors accepting cards, but in Barranquilla, it was all cash. Again—just carry cash!
Colombia is certainly a budget-friendly travel destination where even the “bougie” experiences are significantly cheaper compared to other countries. However, in the grand scheme of my travels, it lands in my bottom five. Maybe it’s because I’ve been to similar places before or only explored the northern, beach-tourism-heavy areas, but I didn’t find anything particularly unique or special.
That said, the weather was absolutely perfect. We encountered some rain, but only during downtime, and the mornings and evenings were lovely. The afternoons got a little hot and humid but nothing unbearable. While Colombia didn’t blow me away, it was still an interesting and affordable getaway with a few memorable highlights.
Here is a link to the google map with some of the places mentioned above: click here.