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February 20-21: Travel day.
We left Las Vegas at 3:59PM and settled in for out nearly 9.5 hour flight to Amsterdam. We had a 4 hour layover which was good since the passport control took nearly an hour to get through. They do pull you out of the main line if your flight in getting close which causes the rest of the line to wait longer. They only had 3 agents open and one was reserved for diplomats. Eventually, they opened another booth. We went up to the lounge and hung out for a couple hours before heading to the gate. Our flight was delayed 15 minutes but we boarded smoothly and arrived with only the 15 minute delay. We got our bags and walked out to the shuttle bus to the car rental area. We got conned into snow tires added to our rental with the threat that snow tires are required under a certain temperature in Sweden. We added the pass to the tunnel into Sweden and headed on our way to the hotel. It was very close to the airport. We made a small stop at Netto to buy some water and other snacks. I had already “pre-checked” into the hotel: Copenhagen Go Hotel so we basically just had to grab the key and a parking pass. The hotel was very basic with small rooms. It was very clean, the shower was hot and the bed was fairly comfy. We did get a “queen” but it’s basically just 2 twin beds pushed together. We also had free parking and free breakfast. We were nearly zombies at this point as we didn’t really sleep but we were ready for a real meal. After we dropped the bags, we headed by foot about 600m to Tarnby Tove Cafe & Pizza. It was a small restaurant where we were able to get a pizza for about $20USD. We went back to the room and crashed.
February 22
We woke up early, feeling as refreshed as you can when you miss an entire night of sleep. We headed down to the breakfast which was a buffet style with hard/soft boiled eggs, various breads/pastries, coldcuts, cheese, yogurt, cereal, coffees and juices. It was good. We packed up and got on the road. We drove through the bridge and stopped at the passport control. They had an issues scanning my boyfriend’s passport at the main line so we had to pull in to a lane to be helped by another officer. At first, he came in kinda hot, opening the door to the back seat. We explained that we were sent over because the scanner wouldn’t scan a passport and headed him the passports. Another officer arrived and looked at my passport quickly, handed it back. The first officer asked my boyfriend a few questions, took a photo of his passport and then handed the passport back and told us we could go.
We headed to Lund and found a parking spot at the Lund University Historical Museum. We paid for an hour and a half and wandered around the area. There is a park Lundagard which has a rune stone hill with thousand year old rune stones which was kind of impressive to see. From there, we wandered to the Kunghuset/Lundagardshuset and the Meridian for the Academic Quarter. The Kunghuset supposedly dates back to the 16th century. Another short walk led us to Lund Cathedral:
- Founded in the 11th century as part of the archbishopric of Lund in Sweden.
- Construction began around 1103, and the cathedral was consecrated in 1145.
- Originally Romanesque, underwent Gothic renovations in the 14th century.
- Dedicated to St. Lawrence, adapted during the Protestant Reformation in the 16th century.
- 19th-century restorations aimed at returning the cathedral to its medieval appearance.
- Notable features include the astronomical clock and medieval sculptures.
- Cultural and historical symbol of Lund, attracting visitors for its architectural beauty and spiritual significance.
We wandered a bit further to Charles XII house: Since the 1830s, the block of Katedralskolan, where the Karl XII house is located, has been the site of the city’s secondary school. Before that, the majority of the block belonged to one of Lund’s foremost city mansions. The main building of the mansion, the so-called Karl XII house, dates back to the 1580s. In the 1830s, it was converted into a schoolhouse. The name of the house refers to its function as the king’s residence during the years 1716-1718. As the school activities grew during the latter part of the 19th century, more purpose-built buildings were needed. The school was expanded during the 1850s to 1890s with several new buildings, and even in the early 2000s, an extension has been made. We walked around a bit more and had to use a restroom so we stopped into Wayne’s coffee which was a pretty relaxed environment and the tea was good. We used the restroom and sipped our tea before heading back to the car.
From Lund, we headed back to Malmo. We parked at the Malmo Castle:
- Construction: Malmö Castle, also known as Malmöhus, was built in the 16th century, with construction starting in 1434 by Eric of Pomerania, the king of the Kalmar Union.
- Purpose: Initially constructed as a fortress, the castle served strategic and defensive purposes during a time of political turmoil.
- Reconstruction: Over the centuries, Malmö Castle underwent various renovations and reconstructions, transitioning from a fortress to a royal residence.
- Danish Rule: Malmö was under Danish rule for a significant part of its history, and the castle played a role in Danish-Swedish conflicts.
- Swedish Ownership: Sweden gained control of Malmö and the castle in 1658 through the Treaty of Roskilde, marking the end of the Second Northern War.
- Functions: Malmö Castle has served different functions over the years, including as a royal residence, prison, and mint.
- Modern Use: Today, Malmö Castle houses the Malmö Museums, including exhibitions on regional history, art, and natural history.
Honestly, this was the least impressive castle that I’ve seen in Europe. The entrance is a line for tickets with a gift shop. Although, it appears that you are entering the castle, the interior is not. You must go to the second floor and wander through some museum exhibits to get to the round tower and castle entrance and even then the castle is just a set of interior steps. The inside is modestly furnished and it has random artifacts throughout without making much sense. I wasn’t the biggest fan but decided to check this castle out due to the mote. Anyway, we wandered around the museum and castle for a while and then headed to the central downtown area and parked. We walked around Lilla Torg and Sodergatan Street which are both touristy shopping areas. We had lunch at Bullen Tea Krogare which had some traditional Swedish dishes and a modest menu (4 selections) for lunch. We had pasta with roast beef, and thinly sliced pork with boiled potatoes. It was all very good. The restruarant has been open for nearly 200 year and the inside was very ornate with lovely paintings on the wall, some as impressive as the castle we visited early. On the way back to the car, we walked through a park cemetery: Brunnen Gustav Adolfs torg which is named after Gustavus Adolphus (1594–1632) who was the King of Sweden known for his military successes during the Thirty Years’ War. The cemetery had new and old headstones and a lot of family plots. It was a nice detour to the streets we had already walked on. Afterward, we walked to the car and drove to Trelleborg to see the Kim Memorial. This was interesting because the parking situation was nonexistent so we pulled into a small dirt area and hustled. The path was well marked but muddy on this soggy rainy day. We found the memorial easily and had our first up close sighting of the Baltic Sea. My boyfriend of course had to “try” the water and was surprised that it wasn’t salty. It was cold and windy so we didn’t spend much time hear and got back to the car to carry on. We detoured a bit out of the way in Ystad to see the Greyfriars Abbey:
- establishment: Greyfriars Abbey, also known as the Franciscan Friary of Greyfriars, was founded in the early 16th century in Edinburgh.
- Franciscan Order: It belonged to the Franciscan Order, a mendicant religious order founded by St. Francis of Assisi.
- Dissolution: Like many monastic institutions, Greyfriars Abbey faced dissolution during the Scottish Reformation in the mid-16th century, leading to its closure in 1559.
- Later Use: Parts of the abbey were repurposed over the centuries. The church was used for worship by the Church of Scotland, while other areas served various secular functions.
- Covenanter’s Prison: During the 17th century, the Greyfriars Kirkyard associated with the abbey became known for the imprisonment of Covenanters, who resisted religious interference.
- Notable Figures: Greyfriars Kirkyard is also famous for being the burial place of notable figures, including Sir Walter Scott.
- Restoration: In the 19th century, there were efforts to restore and preserve the remaining structures of Greyfriars Abbey.
The funny thing about this church is that it’s MASSIVE but has a tiny door at the front entrance, to the point where my boyfriend was convinced that it was the back entrance. We walked around the entire building and sure enough it was the front entrance after all. We didn’t wander into this one and admired the outside only. The final stop of the day was an attempt at Ales Stenar for more rune stones. However, the old parking area is closed and now it’s 1.1KM walk and it was hella foggy, cold and rainy so we opted out as we didn’t really think we would see too much due to the fog. We continued driving to the Aurora Bed and Breakfast which is our accomdation for the night. No one was at checkin but a number was posted which we called and the lady told us how to access the room. I thought I had booked rooms with private bathrooms only but it has a shared bathroom, luckily it’s 9:30PM here and our neighboring room is still empty so it’s working out okay so far. We dropped our bags and headed out to eat. We attempted a restaurant to find it closed but luckily another place was nearby called Karinsbistrobar. It was a cute little bistro with 4 entrees and 4 small entrees. We got a burger and shrimp pasta. Both were good and the staff was excellent. The interior is very small but cozy and the placed was packed when we arrived, luckily it cleared out while we ate. Afterward, we headed to the hotel and got showered and relaxed a bit. All and all it was a good, albeit cold and rainy day.
February 23
After we shut the blinds and turned off the the lights, we noticed an outdoor light that basically lit up the room. We woke up the next morning at 5:30am and as my boyfriend opened the blinds, he realized in his delirious jetlagged stupor that outdoor light was actually a lamp that was sitting on the windowsill. I also did not notice so you can obviously understand our mental states at bedtime. It made for a comical start to the day. We quickly packed up and got on the road. Breakfast at the bed and breakfast was at 8am so we decided to skip it. We traveled to Nymolla Smedja which was a forge, work-shop and dwelling. It was built in the mid-nintenth century. The locals would come there to have their horses shod and their tools mended for about 100 years. The last blacksmith retired in 1965. It had an interesting dog sculpture nearby and an old carriage. We headed to Solvesborgs Slott:
- Medieval Origins: Sölvesborg Castle has medieval origins, with the construction of the castle dating back to the late 13th century. It was built as a defensive fortress to protect the southern borders of Sweden and played a strategic role in the conflicts of that time.
- Ownership and Renovations: The castle changed hands several times over the centuries, and different owners made various modifications and renovations to the structure. The castle was expanded and fortified during the 16th century, reflecting the military needs of the time.
- Strategic Importance: Due to its location near the Baltic Sea, Sölvesborg Castle was strategically significant in controlling maritime routes and defending against potential invasions.
- Decline and Neglect: As military strategies evolved, the importance of traditional fortresses like Sölvesborg diminished. Over the years, the castle fell into a state of disrepair and neglect.
- Restoration: In the 20th century, efforts were made to restore and preserve Sölvesborg Castle. Restoration work aimed to showcase the historical and architectural significance of the castle.
- Cultural Venue: Today, Sölvesborg Castle is not only a historical site but also serves as a venue for cultural events, exhibitions, and community activities. It stands as a reminder of Sweden’s medieval history and is open to the public, allowing visitors to explore its rich past.
The slott had a few buildings on site and a ruin on top of a hill. There was also a really lovely view of the Sea from on top. Nearby is a pedestrian bridge so If you want to make a hike of it, there is a nice walk to be had. This day was luckily dry but windy and cold. At this point we were hungry and attempted a few restaurants along the way but all of them were closed which I guess is part of being a tourist in the off season. Alas, we ended up at McDonalds which was interesting as the have some different items such as donuts, Oreo frappes and bags of carrots on the menu. We dined in and attempted to hook up our electric charging but sadly you need an app and/or subscription and we were unable to download the apps on the apple store being we have international numbers. We headed to the Kalmar Slott:
13th Century: Kalmar Castle’s construction began in the late 12th century, and it was initially a defensive fortress. The castle was strategically positioned on the southeast coast of Sweden, near the border of the Kalmar Strait.
Union of Kalmar: The castle gained prominence during the Union of Kalmar (1397-1523), a series of agreements that united the kingdoms of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden under a single monarch. Kalmar served as a meeting place for the three countries during this union.
Reconstruction and Expansion: In the 16th century, King Gustav Vasa initiated significant reconstruction and expansion of the castle, transforming it from a medieval fortress into a Renaissance palace. The additions included a grand hall and impressive towers.
Danes and Swedes Conflict: Kalmar Castle played a role in the conflicts between Denmark and Sweden. The castle changed hands multiple times during the frequent wars between the two nations in the 17th century.
18th Century: During the 18th century, Kalmar Castle lost its military significance and was used for various purposes, including as a prison.
Restoration: In the 19th century, efforts were made to preserve and restore Kalmar Castle to its former glory. Restoration work aimed to showcase its historical and architectural value.
Tourist Attraction: Today, Kalmar Castle is a popular tourist attraction and museum. Visitors can explore its well-preserved rooms, exhibits, and learn about the castle’s rich history. It stands as a symbol of medieval and Renaissance architecture in Sweden.
This was more of traditional castle in Europe. You park and walk through a cemetery to the entrance. The exterior is free to explore but to enter the inside it’s about $13USD. They have several rooms to see including living quarters, great halls, a dungeon, women’s prison quarter, etc. It had some original furniture as well. It also featured some nice views of the water and has a mini mote. At the corner of the parking lot, there is a ruins of the Bastionen Sankt Erik which was part of the new fortification surrounding the castle and town. It also housed a maritime academy. The next place that we ventured to was across the bridge to Oland which is an island with a lot of viking history. The first stop there was the Barrow at Mysinge which is the second largest burial mound on Oland. It played an important role during several prehistoric periods. The site also has some old windmills on it which is actually pretty interesting to see. We also stopped at Gettlinge grave field which is the largest of the Iron Age grave fields. It has mounds, stone ships, stone cists, stone circles, a tricone grave, standing limestone slab and most commonly low round stone filled graves. 25 of these were excavated over 100 years ago. It was a pretty impressive site to see. We continued South to another ruin which states its: Lime kiln from 1932. Initially, lime burning was a domestic activity. Along the shores, farmers burned the lime they needed to fertilize their soils. During the 19th century, the activity grew, and lime was transported from Grönhögens harbor to the mainland by boat. The lime kiln was lined with slate and limestone. The kiln was ignited with wood, then shale served as fuel. Burning took about 3-4 weeks. This site also featured amazing views of the sea and you are able to walk up a hill into the ruins to get an even better view. Next was the St Johannes Kapell. This site has a diorama of the old church and a mound where it once belonged. It was built by the merchants in the 13th century. It was a place of warship and closely guarded warehouse. It fell into disrepair in the 16th century and what was left was used to build the Lange Jan Lighthouse in 1780. The site also as a cross. We continued south and stopped at the Lange Jan Lighthouse. It was closed but we were able to walk up to it and see it up close. There is also some really great views of the sea from this location at the Southern most tip of the island.
We then headed toward the north to try to catch a glimpse of the Eketorps Borg. We were able to accomplish this but it was of course closed so we only saw it from afar. It did look interesting and might be worth a stop if you are there when it’s open. Next was the Runsten Seby which has a plague that is translated to English as SEBY Sagerstad parish Oland’s runic – after 18 RUNE STONE with inscription from the 1000s AD Ingjald and Näv and Sven, they let the stone after Rodmar, their fatherThe name Nay “the one with the nose” has originally been an insult name. supposedly, a person with a large or deformed nose- NATIONAL HERITAGE BOARD. The last stop of the day was a memorial to the ship Ada Gorthon: The ship Ada Gorthon was a Swedish cargo ship that sank in 1942. It was named after Ada Gorthon, the wife of the ship’s owner, Axel Gorthon. The vessel was involved in transporting cargo during World War II, a time when maritime activity was particularly hazardous due to the threat of enemy attacks such as submarines and naval mines.
We drove back to the mainland and stopped at Pizzeria Krysset I Kalmar AB for dinner. We had a gyro viking pizza which was essentially a calzone and delicious. The added bonus was that when we got out of the car, my boyfriend was stuck to the seat, evidently a gummy road snack melted due to the heated seat and became a sticky glob that got stuck to his pants and the seat. He had a minor freak out, not knowing what it was initially. I probably laughed a bit too hard at this and it took a few minutes to clean up the mess. We found our way to our hotel: The Best Western in Sjofartshotellet. It is a super convenient hotel near the water with a very nice staff. The hotel is clean and the room is more spacious than we’ve had these past few days. The shower was hot and the bed was huge. We were quite pleased.
February 24
Today, we woke up to an amazing breakfast at the hotel. The spread was huge with cold cuts, cheeses, fruits, veggies, bacon, scrambled eggs, breads, meatballs, juices, pastries, etc… I mean it was unreal. We then had our longest drive of the trip: about 4 hours to Stockholm. We found parking in the downtown area, found a parking machine that was broken so we had the joy of trying to use an app. It was a process. Stockholm has a pass that you pay a rate for that gives you access to several attractions around town so we bought one. We headed straight to the Vasa Museum. It was actually pretty incredible: it is dedicated to the preservation and display of the Vasa, a 17th-century warship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628 and was salvaged in 1961. The museum showcases the remarkably well-preserved ship, allowing visitors to explore its intricate details and learn about its history. Exhibits provide insights into maritime life, naval warfare, and the circumstances surrounding the Vasa’s construction and sinking. The Vasa Museum is a popular tourist attraction, offering a unique and immersive experience into Sweden’s maritime heritage. It was a crazy building that appears to be built around the ship. It was 4 stories tall and the ship is 95% original. It was a favorite stop of the day.
Nearby was the Viking Museum which was also included on the pass: officially known as the Vikingaliv, offers an immersive experience into Viking history and culture. The museum features interactive exhibits, artifacts, and lifelike displays that provide visitors with insights into Viking life, traditions, and exploration. Highlights include a recreated Viking village, multimedia presentations, and well-preserved artifacts. The Viking Museum aims to bring the Viking Age to life, allowing visitors to explore and learn about this fascinating historical period. The museum had a few artifacts and what appeared to be replicas. They also had a 11 minute ride that was actually done quite well. I think I expected more out of the museum so I was a bit disappointed. It was mostly one floor with a few items to see on the lower level which is where the ride was also located. Right next to the Viking Museum was the Ship Wreck museum which was also included on the pass. This museum has a lot of information, footage of scuba dives and artifacts as well the history of the ships and items from ship wrecks in the Baltic Sea. It was done really well but this isn’t necessarily something that I’m super interested in. I did enjoy to learn about some of the stories of the ships. Finally, we headed to the Spirits museum. This was another highlight for me because the museum was for adults only and was very interactive. They had a love x absolut exhibit, true crime exhibit, history of alcohol, etc. The true crime section was my favorite with stories about people that were criminals smuggling alcohol. They also had some custom body flasks on display in this section. They had a lot of items for you to listen to, smell, touch and watch. It was an art museum and infomative museum in one. I dug it. My sober boyfriend almost fell down the stairs like a drunkard but hey it’s a story.
We made our way to the car and headed to Bromma, where we are staying for the night. It was about 25 minutes and it took sometime to find the hotel as it’s on the second floor of a strip type mall. It has very little signage and the parking situation was complicated. We did eventually find the hotel and the appropriate parking area. The hotel is called Biz Apartements Bromma. The rooms are nice and spacious with a pretty loaded kitchen and mini fridge. We are moving on up in the accommodations. We got settled and walked across the large parking lot to a supermarket. We bought some items for dinner and breakfast in the morning. We came home and found out the microwave doesn’t work… the meals we bought were hot items soooo… The shower got hot at least.
February 25th
We woke up and used the Stockholm pass to have Fika at Systerarna Andersson. We both received a pastry and coffee or tea using the pass. The place was small and located about 12 mins driving from the hotel. The chai tea was good and the pastries: Cardamom roll and cinnamon roll were delicious. It was a great way to start the morning. After breakfast, the boyfriend took the car back to the hotel to await his Wingsuit Windtunnel time and I grabbed an uber and headed to the center for the city for more sightseeing. I started at 9:40 at Storkyrkan. I didn’t even need the pass for this as admission is free on Sunday mornings apparently:
also known as Stockholm Cathedral, is a historic church located in Gamla Stan, the old town of Stockholm, Sweden. Here’s a concise history:
- Origins: Storkyrkan’s history dates back to the 13th century when a wooden church was built on the site. The current brick church was consecrated around 1306.
- Renovations and Expansions: Over the centuries, Storkyrkan underwent various renovations and expansions, reflecting different architectural styles. The church features a mix of Gothic, Baroque, and medieval elements.
- Coronation Venue: Storkyrkan has been the site of numerous royal events, including coronations, weddings, and baptisms. Notably, it hosted the coronation of King Gustav Vasa in 1528.
- St. George and the Dragon: One of the most famous features of Storkyrkan is the wooden statue of St. George and the Dragon, carved by Bernt Notke in 1489. It is a symbol of Stockholm and is displayed in the church.
- Royal Burials: Several Swedish monarchs and noble families are buried in Storkyrkan, contributing to its significance in Swedish royal history.
- Restorations: In the 19th century, extensive renovations were carried out to restore and preserve the church. The interiors were also updated during this period.
- Present Day: Storkyrkan remains an active Lutheran parish church and a popular tourist attraction. Visitors can admire its historical architecture, the St. George and the Dragon sculpture, and the overall ambiance of this iconic religious site.
It is an impressive building and the inside is even more impressive with tombs in the floor and in some of the walls. It has a ton of gold adorned decorations. It has maybe the biggest organ I’ve seen. I also got a bonus of song while I was there. It was a lovely experience. Afterward, I headed to the Royal Palace. It opened at 10AM and the admission includes 3 areas: the guest apartments, the museum and the treasury:
- Origins: The construction of the Royal Palace began in the 18th century on the site of the medieval Tre Kronor Castle, which was destroyed by fire in 1697. The new palace was designed by architect Nicodemus Tessin the Younger.
- Completion: The palace was completed in 1754 during the reign of King Adolf Frederick. It became the official residence of the Swedish monarchs.
- Architectural Style: The Royal Palace is built in the Italian Baroque style and comprises over 600 rooms, making it one of the largest palaces in Europe.
- Official Functions: The palace serves as the official residence of the Swedish monarch, but since 1981, King Carl XVI Gustaf and Queen Silvia have chosen to reside at Drottningholm Palace. The Royal Palace is still used for official ceremonies, state banquets, and other events.
- Attractions: The palace is open to the public, allowing visitors to explore the various state rooms, the Royal Apartments, the Treasury, and the Royal Chapel. It houses a significant collection of art, historical artifacts, and regalia.
- Changing of the Guard: One of the popular attractions at the Royal Palace is the daily Changing of the Guard ceremony, held in the Outer Courtyard.
- Museums: The palace complex includes several museums, including the Royal Armory and the Tre Kronor Museum, providing insights into Swedish history and regal traditions.
The guest apartments were interesting but the Kronor Museum was the bees knees. It included the oldest room in the castle, it was underground and had a lot of really interesting things to see including a lot of interesting facts about the castle. The guest apartments were elaborately decorated with vibrant colors and there is a lot of furniture, artwork and history to be seen as well. The treasury was small and had some of the crowns and royal jewelry on display. Next to the treasury was the armory. Now this is a separate admission but included on the Stockholm pass which should be noted. This was probably my favorite part of the Palace. It was done so well and it had royal clothing through the periods on display. I was raised on a horse farm so I particularly enjoyed seeing the items the adorned horses: saddles, body armor, saddle pads, etc. They also discuss unicorns from literature throughout history and other interesting topics. In the basement of this building is several royal carriages. This was the best part of the Palace in my opinion and I spent a descent amount of time down there.
From the Palace, I wandered and found the iconic Stockholm colored buildings. Right in this area is the Nobel Peace museum and I used my pass to get in there. This one was a lot of displays with mostly photos and descriptions of the winners. It was one of the smallest museums I saw. It is under constuction for a new exhibit and had discounted admission at the time of my visit. Because of the small size, it was busy and difficult to navigate. I would put this one as my least favorite of the museums. If you are really into the topic though, you might find it more interesting. They also had a lot of space dedicated to clothing. It was not my cup of tea. After the quick visit here, I headed in pursuit of the Upplands Runinskrifter 53, It was on the corner of a street. I actually stopped into the store on that corner and blew right by it. I only noticed when several city tour groups stopped by the corner. It is smaller than I expected but still worth a peek. I admired the Saint Gertrude German Church for a bit and walked through the corridor/garden to get to ironically the Jewish Museum: a cultural institution dedicated to preserving and showcasing the history and heritage of Jewish life in Sweden. Here’s a brief overview:
- Establishment: The Jewish Museum in Stockholm was established in 1987. It was created to document, preserve, and share the rich history and contributions of the Jewish community in Sweden.
- Location: The museum is located in Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s Old Town, in a building known as the Hötorgssynagogan (Hötorget Synagogue). This synagogue, originally built in 1870, serves as both a place of worship and the museum’s primary location.
- Exhibits: The museum features exhibits that cover various aspects of Jewish life, culture, and history in Sweden. It includes displays on Jewish traditions, customs, and notable individuals within the Swedish Jewish community.
- Temporary Exhibitions: In addition to its permanent exhibits, the museum hosts temporary exhibitions, events, and educational programs to further engage visitors and promote understanding.
- Cultural Events: The Jewish Museum actively participates in cultural events and initiatives, contributing to the broader cultural landscape of Stockholm and fostering intercultural dialogue.
This may have been the most beautiful of the museums. I can’t place it into words, but it was small but you just enjoyed looking at it as a whole. It gave a lot of history about Judaism in Sweden including the first person granted permission to practice. They have some interesting artifacts and its all displayed beautifully.
I worked up an appetite so I stopped at Under Kastanjen for lunch. I ordered the Swedish meatballs, mashed potatoes and carrot cake. It was my best meal so far in Sweden and I was very happy with my life choices at this point in the day. It was quick and before I knew it, I was on the way to the National Museum:
- Founding: The Nationalmuseum was founded in 1792 by King Gustav III as the Kungliga Museet (Royal Museum). It was established to showcase a broad collection of artworks and artifacts for the education and enjoyment of the public.
- Architectural Significance: The current building, designed by the German architect Friedrich August Stüler, was inaugurated in 1866. The museum’s architecture reflects a combination of Renaissance and Neoclassical styles.
- Art Collection: The Nationalmuseum houses an extensive collection of Swedish and international art, spanning paintings, sculptures, decorative arts, and applied arts. The collection includes works from the Renaissance to contemporary periods.
- Renovations: The museum underwent a major renovation that began in 2013 and was completed in 2018. The renovation aimed to modernize the facilities, improve exhibition spaces, and enhance visitor experiences.
- Reopening: After the renovation, the Nationalmuseum officially reopened to the public in October 2018. The revitalized museum continues to serve as a hub for art appreciation, education, and cultural enrichment.
- Collections Highlights: Some of the notable artworks in the collection include pieces by Swedish masters like Carl Larsson and Anders Zorn, as well as international artists such as Rembrandt, Rubens, and Van Gogh.
Soooo…. I am probably not the person to review this type of place. It was huge and I find a lot of the subject matter boring. It’s 3 stories. I decided to trek to the top and work my way down. It is well organized and some of the paintings, sculptures and artifacts were interesting for a person like me. I blew by a lot of it though. The highlights for me included some Roman sculptures/paintings, some old historic books: one of which has some unknown history, the animal art section, the armory section with unique jewelry and the more modern ornate art section. It takes a while to even breeze through the place and at times, I got a bit lost and/or had issues navigating without missing some rooms. They have an impressive cafe and gift shop as well. I continued to walk along the canal and crossed a bridge to the Toy Museum. Now this place was fun. It is built into a rock. It weaves back and forth with 100’s of different toys from probably 35+ years ago. I enjoyed seeing some of the toys I was aware of as well as the toys that make you wonder “what were they thinking?” I.e Smoking Grandpa? Yes, it was there. It was kid friendly, and by that I mean, kids are running around rampant, yelling, screaming, etc… Despite that, this place was a little bit magical and I loved it.
I headed through Nybrogatan park which has an interesting history of being an inlet of the sea. In the 1640’s a bridge was built across the inlet. Over time, the water became more shallow because people were throwing their waste into it. The inlet eventually became a stinking pool. It was filled in the 19th century and a statue was erected. After a short walk, I reached Hallwylska Museet: a historic house museum in Stockholm, Sweden, originally the private residence of Count and Countess Walther and Wilhelmina von Hallwyl. It was built between 1893 and 1898 and designed by Isak Gustaf Clason in a French Renaissance style. In 1920, the Hallwyls donated the house and its contents to the Swedish state, and it opened as a museum in 1938. Today, it showcases the luxurious lifestyle of the Swedish aristocracy in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The place is large, sprawling across 3 levels with huge collections of pottery, weapons, armor, artwork and other artifacts. It has a small gift shop. The final museum of the day was nearby: The Performing Arts Museum: traces its origins to the Swedish Theatre Museum (Svenska Teatermuseet), which was founded in 1922. Initially, it was housed in various locations before finding a permanent home in the Gustavianum building in Uppsala in 1933. In 1956, the museum moved to Stockholm and was housed in the Royal Opera House (Kungliga Operan) until 1990 when it relocated to its current location in the Art Nouveau-style building designed by architect Ferdinand Boberg. The museum’s collection includes costumes, set designs, props, and other artifacts related to Swedish performing arts history, spanning theater, opera, ballet, and film. This museum was a lot of fun. It has so much interactive items that you could literally spend the entire day here. It has something for most of the senses: sight, touch, hearing. It has many stops to listen to music via headphones, become the art, see costumes, etc. My favorite was a wall of shoes with a touch screen, it had clips of the shoes being used when you tapped the photo. There were also little diorama scenes that when a button was pressed came to life. It’s another museum that is very kid friendly so if you have kids, bring them. If you don’t like kids, be warned, some areas are chaos. My overall experience was okay but I had to sit down and wait for the hurricane of kids to pass so I could enjoy the space in a quieter, calmer manner.
From this museum, things took a turn. I was attempting to find a store called: Designtorget. I started the 20 minute walk good, and even hit a few athletic/outdoor sports stores: XXL and Stadium outlet. I bought a new shirt and pants for a great price so I was quite pleased. I love a good deal. HOWEVER, I got to Central Station which didn’t seem right so I re-entered the address and it took me through the train terminal across the street once I got out on the other side and GPS worked again I wasn’t anywhere near it and was actually heading to something else (how another place was entered? I don’t know). I re-entered the store and sure enough it took me back to Central Station. This place is insane. It is busy with all kinds of people, stores, restaurants. The store was actually inside. However, it was so busy with people and luggage that I just couldn’t enjoy my shopping experience. I was impressed with the building and amenities: looking at you USA. After the debacle of getting lost, I almost skipped the Icebar but decided to try anyway. I had to get to the lower street and found a staircase. I wandered down an alley next to the Radisson following the signs and located it with ease. I went inside to find out I arrived on the last day before renovations. I used my pass which included a free drink. I was provided a poncho and some gloves and in I went. The bar was tiny and in terms of ice bars, it wasn’t that great. I, of course, didn’t have to pay the entrance and a drink was included in my pass so it was worth that at least. There were a few pieces of furniture made out of ice including a throne. The bar was made out of ice and the cups were made out of ice. It’d be more impressive if this is your first ice bar, but I have seen a few that are a bit more elaborate and impressive. The last stop was Jensens Steakhouse. I ordered the 2 course meal which included a shrimp cocktail and steak. Both were good, service was okay, not overly amazing. It is a bit pricey but the steak was cooked perfectly and the portion size was good. I’d probably recommend trying somewhere else though, I was just hungry and my feet hurt so I settled for something nearby. I grabbed an uber and headed back to the hotel to get some laundry done for the remainder of the trip. I walked 9.25 miles today and my body feels it. The boyfriend is still at his wing suit tunnel but I’m sure he will be equally as tired. This trip has been funny cause we are having a complete role reversal. I am usually the exhausted one that goes to bed early but he’s been the grandma in this relationship on this trip and I’m the one staying up late(r)
February 26
Welp, the boyfriend went to bed earlier than I did and I spent time switching hotels since the rates have gone down since I booked. I finally went to bed around 11:15pm…. I know, I know. Anyway, the next day the boyfriend had to be at the tunnel at 9am and nothing I wanted to see opened before 10am. I packed and got myself organized. I walked across the parking lot at 10AM to the Bromma Blocks which is a shopping mall. Most of the stores were geared to locals and had an emphasis on home items. I spent about 30 minutes wandering around and went back to the hotel to leave the car key for my boyfriend. I then got an Uber and headed to the Haga Ocean. Now, when the Uber dropped me off, I questioned my life choices. The place had construction and the entrance wasn’t clear. The exterior looked a bit underwhelming but I decided to walk up anyway. I entered and the main entrance didn’t give me much more faith in what I was about to see. However, it was part of the Stockholm pass so I went in. I was immediately glad I entered. The place had a lot of vegetation inside, fish tanks, aquariums with lizards and frogs. They also had some habitats for turtles. Throughout the place, the have butterflies that roam freely including a Chrysalis case. Every week they receive about 1000 of them. It was the first time I’ve seen one so openly displayed. I wandered around for about an hour. I even went to take selfie, to discover that a butterfly landed on my head. It hung out for about 3 minutes or so. The Haga Ocean, also had an aquarium with a shark. All and all the place was well worth the trip. I headed out from there and wandered through Hagaparken. I attempted to get to the Palace but the park was under construction and the path there wasn’t accessible. I followed the path toward Solna, and nearly fell on my ass a few times. One warning: if the path is less traveled in Sweden in the winter, it’s probably because the path is slippery. I managed to survive the trek on my feet, barely. I continued to a cemetery. Then carried on to The Mall of Scandinavia. This mall was massive and included 2 main levels with a lot of stores, a food court and sit down dining. There was also off shoots that were the “beauty corridor” and the “designer corridor.” I bought a few items from Decathlon and then headed to find a place to eat. I settled for a place called Basilica which is apparently a Swedish Diner. I had the Swedish meatballs which included juice and a salad bar/bread. It was a great deal and the food was pretty good. Mondays are a rough day in Stockholm as a lot of museums are closed. So after the mall, I decided to hope in an Uber and went to the Indoor Wingsuit Tunnel to watch my boyfriend for a bit. After his final jump, we hopped in the car and went to a Church that had been deconsecrated and turned into a brewery it was called Opnipollo. It had some good beer and a small food menu consisting of mostly burgers. We opted for the burger of the month. We enjoyed our meal and then got on the road for our hotel in Vesteras: Noah’s Longstay. The check in process was a self check in. We got in smoothly and the room was adequate. Nothing special but all the basic amenities. We did have twin beds that were separate so we had to sleep apart that night. The shower was warm though and the beds were fairly comfortable.
February 27.
We started the morning leisurely and needed gas. We headed out for gas station to fill the tank. We wound up close to the pier and lighthouse so we decided to check it out. It is more exciting to see a frozen body of water when you are traveling with a South American that hasn’t spent much time in winter. We headed a bit out of town to Valkommen: which is one of the largest burial grounds in Sweden. Bodies were also cremated at this site. The rock formations are shaped like boats. The sight also has a runestone which is quite large and in good condition. Afterward we stopped into Mormors Restaurang for a buffet style lunch. I had this risotto with meat and it included a salad bar, drink and dessert. It was only SEK 140 and well worth the money and probably the cheapest meal we’ve had in Sweden. I highly recommend the place and it was busy with locals. With our stomachs full, we headed to Falun: Falun, located in Dalarna County, Sweden, has a history centered around copper mining. The Great Copper Mountain was a major copper mine in Europe during the 17th century, contributing significantly to Sweden’s wealth. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, Falun is known for its distinctive red-painted wooden houses and traditional Dalecarlian culture. The city diversified with industrialization in the 19th century and remains a vibrant place, showcasing both historical charm and modern amenities. We were able to see the mine from the outside but missed the last tour inside the mine. The museum was open and cost roughly $10USD. It is more geared to children and very interactive. The massive mine was impressive to see though and the history of the town was cool to learn. It helped us understand where Sweden got some of it’s wealth from. After the mine, we headed into town and parked. We found a walking street and wandered. It was pretty and historic. Before it got dark, we ventured to our hotel for the night: Sjugare B&B. The drive consisted of some icy roads which was the first time my boyfriend experienced driving in winter. He did well, and we didn’t land in a ditch so that’s always a win. Our room is quite small but decorated cute. It’s only downside is community showers, luckily the room has a private toilet. We headed to dinner in Lekland called GC Restaurang Bar & Cafe. It was quirky inside with multiple couches, comfy chairs, regular chairs and what appeared to be a stage. It had some of the best food that we’ve experienced but also some of the priciest food. It was a great end to the day.
February 27:
We woke to a nice breakfast. We packed up our stuff and headed into Rattvik. We drove to the Rättvik Church, located in Rättvik, Dalarna County, Sweden, is a historic church dating back to the 14th century. It features traditional Scandinavian architecture with a whitewashed exterior and a cruciform floor plan. Inside, visitors can admire paintings, an 18th-century altarpiece, and a 17th-century pulpit. The church is part of the scenic town of Rättvik, known for its cultural heritage and picturesque surroundings along Lake Siljan. Rättvik Church remains an active place of worship and hosts events, making it a notable cultural and historical attraction in the region. It has a large cemetery on the grounds and if you follow it toward the river you will find a large monument: The stone was erected in 1893 in memory of Gustaf Vasa’s first speech to the valley men on the church wall in 1520. Around the monument are 12 stones of the names of men who helped Gustaf Vasa during his journey. It also has a nice view of the water and you can see the Holman from there which is a historic pier made entirely for wood. It was cold, windy and the river was frozen so we didn’t make the trek to the pier as the view would be more of the same as where we were. Along the route to Stockholm we sung by an old historic Grain Auger called: Kornskruven in a town called Hofor. It was a quick drive by and nothing I’d recommend stopping to see. From there, we headed to an indoor mall so my boyfriend could experience what it’s like. As an American, they are a bit wild with really nice restuarants, grocery stores, and descent crowds. The American mall is a dying thing so it’s almost nostalgic. We also made a stop off to Mackmyra which is a Swedish single malt whiskey distillary. Then following information is from their website (https://se.mackmyra.com/): “We knew that using gravity would be part of our vision for being climate-smart and the distillery makes use of gravity at each stage of the process. Starting with feeding in the raw ingredients at the top, to collecting the new-make spirit at the bottom, everything falls naturally from one stage in the process to the next. As well as this, all heat generated in production is used to heat our premises. Right next to the distillery is the boiler that heats the water to 115C. It is fired by bio-pellets and any waste water is returned to the boiler after every production batch to maximise recycling. Even the straw from the barley is re-used, it is in the construction of the famous Christmas goat in Gävle every year.” We were able to get a tour and it was a very unique distillery to see the use of gravity to make the product. Our guide was a brand ambassador and she had a great sense of humor and a passion for the product which made the tour even better. Unfortunately, due to Swedish laws, you are unable to buy the whiskey on sight but can taste it. We passed as it was still early in the day and we had more driving to do and well Swedish alcohol rules and driving. Our last major stop of the day was in Sigtuna. This is such a historic town, and it’s tag line is “the oldest town in Sweden.” We parked and headed to the ruins of Saint Olof church which was built in the 12th century. It was built on top of an even older church. There is also a sacred well on the sight that was use for baptisms. It is named after a Norwegian King Olav Haraldsson whom was worshipped as a saint after his death. It is actually a structure that is in good shape and you can walk inside. On the outside of the church is toward the top is another ruinstone that was built into the church (it’s called: Upplands Runinskrifter 385). On the way to another church on the grounds, you pass a small building with “1757” on the front, on the bottom left corner of this building is a ruinstone (Upplands Runinskrifter 380/381). The other church is the Sigtuna church or St. Mary’s Church: The church was built by the Dominican order as their convent church, and construction began in the 1230s. The church was inaugurated in 1247, but was probably not finished until 1255, when Jarler, Archbishop of Uppsala, was entombed in the church.[1] [2]. The Dominicans had tried to establish a presence in the city earlier, but had not succeeded.[3] The church was built as part of a larger monastic complex. Of this convent nothing remains today; it was closed during the Reformation and the bricks used as building materials, e.g. at Svartsjö Palace and Venngarn Castle. The church is the only medieval church in Sigtuna to have survived the Reformation; the city has an additional three medieval church ruins.[1]. During the 1280s, the church was expanded and partly remade. No major alterations were then made of the church until a renovation in 1904–05. The church was again renovated and upgrade between 1966 and 1971 under the direction of architects Bengt Romare (1902–1968) and Jerk Alton.[1][4]” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Mary%27s_Church,_Sigtuna. This is still an active church and you can go inside. It has impressive high ceilings and an active organ. About 300 meters from this church is another ruins of St Lars Church (Kyrkoruin). This ruins is one of the oldest stone buildings in the town. Lars is in reference to St. Lawrence whom was one of the earliest martyr saints. It was built in the early 12th century. The town had consisted of low buildings of wood and had been around for about 100 years before the church was built. The only remaining structure is part of the tower. The church was in use until the 1530’s and then was used as a school but after a fire in 1658 it was left as a ruin. Also at this site is another ruinstone: Upplands runninskrifter Nf 56. This ruinstone was found in the ruins of the St Lars church, broken into 6 fragments. We crossed the street to head to the water and found the tiniest town hall in Sweden which was built in 1744. It kinda has the look of a small church. We wandered the main pedestrian street for a bit and then turned toward the water to find the “wooden benches”. Unfortunately, this is an active construction site so we were unable to see it. We wandered the water front and found a viking themed mini golf. Then we headed back toward the car. We drove to Solna where our hotel for the night is located: ApartDirect Solna. It is a large one bedroom apartment with a kitchen. It is probably the best of the trip for space and functionality. It has a small sitting area, kitchen, bathroom and king size bed. It’s located by a lot of restuarants and stores. We were pretty wiped out so decided to just walk to a small grocery store nearby and grabbed some food for the night. We ventured back and relaxed for the evening.
February 29
Today we woke up and walked up the street to a bakery called Kosterheds Konditori where we indulged in a cinnamon and vanilla bun as well has coffee and a chai latte. It was delicious and an amazing way to start the day. We then drove to the Indoor Wingsuit Tunnel. I glazed over this before but it’s the only horizontal wind tunnel in the world and a pretty amazing place for people that are wingsuit athletes. The place is pretty nice and has a main entrance with an area for grabbing some coffee, tea and water. There is two microwaves as well. The middle level has a glass window for viewing the tunnel with a half level to watch from a different angle. There are more rooms in back to rest, socialize, eat, etc. The third level is where the pilots enter the windtunnel and spectators can watch from yet another angle. You buy wind tunnel time by the hour and fly in four segments within a half hour, alternating time with another wingsuiter. Each pilot also has a coach for each session and/or can fly solo. The first 10 minute segments is spent attached to ropes and then you progress to a leash with the coach. Once you demonstrate the proper skills you move on to the next stage. It is pretty entertaining to watch and the time flies. Today, my boyfriend had tunnel times at 10am, 11am, 12pm and 1:30pm with a seven hour break before this final 20 minutes. I spent the afternoon writing this and watching him. The place also records all flights from three angles and while you are there, you can access all the videos. We spent the time between his flights reviewing the footage. His major goal is to improve his backflying. During the break, we headed to Solna Centrum, which is a mall nearby. Most of the sites I’d be interested in paying to see were not open today so we took advantage of a more relaxed day. We had lunch at a R. Asia which an Asian buffet. It was cheap by Sweden standards and we were hungry so it worked out. We wondered our way around the mall and found a stuffed animal for my boyfriend’s soon to be great-nephew which was made in Sweden. Then we headed back to the hotel to do some laundry as the apartment has a washer/dryer in the unit and to just relax before my boyfriend had to return back to the tunnel. I also planned some of the remaining stops for the last two full days in Sweden.
March 1
I had one of the best and longest sleeps of the trip. I woke up around 6:30 am and it was glorious. I still felt a bit tired though from so many days of balls out travel. We packed up and got on the road around 8am. We hit the Slagsta Hällristning which is the largest rock carving in Stockholm county. It was found in 1971 but dates back to the Bronze Age of 1800-500 BC. The drawing has 17 ships, a person, 3 horses, the sole of a foot and 170 cup marks. We stopped at a Shell gas station which was the first time we’ve stopped at one and the bathrooms were funny, they had animal paintings on the wall and the stalls had nature sounds playing. It was pretty funny, enough that I had to take a video. We continued on the road and then stopped at Lästringe kyrka. It has a unique looking wooden bell tower structure. The church itself was built in the late 1100’s. The bell tower likely dates back to the 1700’s. Our next stop was Nyköpingshus, located in Nyköping, Sweden, is a medieval castle with a rich history. Originally built in the 12th century, it has undergone numerous renovations and expansions. The castle has served various purposes, including as a royal residence and a prison. Notably, it was the site of the infamous Nyköping Banquet in 1317, where King Birger of Sweden imprisoned his brothers. It is situated by the river and has some pretty good views. They also have a restaurant on site which was inside the actual castle and has a rounded ceiling and coats of armor flags on the walls. I was actually pretty disappointed that they weren’t open but the employee let us walk around a little. It is only open for dinner. You can also walk around the castle grounds exterior. We continued on the road to Norrkoping and stopped off at a mall parking garage and parked. We then headed across the street and had lunch at Lingonfabriken. It has a lunch special that included a meat, potatoe, bread, salad bar and juice. It priced really well. We tried the chicken with scalloped potatoes and roast beef with roasted potatoes. Both were delicious. The road took us to Linkoping which is the headquarters of Saab aviation. This excited my boyfriend and we had to drive by the factory/airport. My boyfriend is Brazilian and there are ties to Saab airplanes and Brazil. There are also 2 plane statues off the highway and one other plane in another location off the freeway this one is called Saab Flygplan and you can access it from a side road in the town. We happened upon the next stop along the road it was the Heda Kryka but it turned out to have an interesting history:
- The oldest parts of Heda Church, likely from the mid-1100s, consist of a Romanesque stone structure with a two-square nave, a narrow choir with an apse, and a slender tower in the west.
- The church underwent various changes over time, making it challenging to determine the chronological order of renovations.
- A chapel with a cross vault and a semi-circular apse was added to the south of the nave. Later, a Gothic-style portal was constructed on the west side of the newly formed central nave.
- In the later 1100s, the north wall of the nave was demolished, and a side aisle with a Cistercian-style portal was added to the west.
- The high choir was later demolished, replaced by a new straight-ended choir with a slightly Gothic portal, likely in the 1200s.
- Renovations continued post-Reformation, including the insertion of glass in windows, opening new windows, removing the ridge turret, and building a new gallery.
- In the mid-1700s, Heda Church featured a unique tower with a smooth hewn limestone roof and two bells.
- Threatened with demolition in the 1800s, Heda Church was saved through restoration efforts in the mid-1800s, preserving much of its medieval structure.
- A 1950 restoration aimed to return the church to its original state, with additions including a sacristy, a baptismal chapel, and an organ gallery.
- The removal of a unique limestone-carved spire during the 19th-century alterations impacted the church’s authenticity.
The next stop was one of my favorites of the entire trip: Alvastra Monastery was founded in 1143 by French monks belonging to the powerful Cistercian Order. From Clairvaux in France to Swedish Östergötland, the monks brought modern methods of administration, technology, and architecture. During the medieval period, the area around Alvastra played a significant role in the development of the Swedish kingdom. The mighty Sverker dynasty, with Sverker the Elder, known as the king of the East Geats and later the ruler of the Swedes, lived in this region. It’s strongly suggested that Alvastra Monastery was built thanks to the influence of the Sverker dynasty. For almost 400 years, Alvastra Monastery thrived. However, with the Reformation, the monastery was dissolved, and its lands were taken over by the crown. Alvastra’s property became Alvastra Royal Estate. The materials from the monastery buildings attracted various builders and were used, among other things, to construct Vadstena Castle and in Per Brahe’s constructions by Lake Vättern. Since 1898, the monastery ruins have been restored and preserved in several phases. The place was in good condition and you can walk around all the ruins including inside. They have a few areas with stairs and/or steps. The surrounding area was beautiful. There are a few picnic tables on the site so you can easily bring a picnic and enjoy the surroundings. It was a must stop. Along the route to Jonkoping there was another ruins called Brahehus Slottsruin. It is just off the highway and you have to drive away from it to a parking lot. We totally screwed this up and made it to this side and found a large parking lot but didn’t see how you crossed the freeway. As we gave up, we drove toward the onramp and started to get on the freeway, when we saw a pedestrian walkway under the freeway. We didn’t go back but in case you want to go, park near the gas station on the opposite side of the road and look for the tunnel. The next stop was Rasmus Kvarn:
Visitors encounter a genuine cultural-historical environment with wooden houses from the 1700s and 1800s and a series of industrial remnants along the dramatic yet beautiful Röttleån ravine. The name Röttle is derived from Röttleån, the roaring rapids, as it was called in medieval times. The oldest evidence of the name and mills along the stream dates back to 1279. The stream is just over twelve kilometers long and serves as the natural drainage for the Ören and Bunn lakes, with a drop of 108 meters. The last four kilometers have a drop of 74 meters. A power station built in 1923 in Gränna has altered the stream’s water flow, making it less than before. In medieval times, there were several mills here, including those owned by Nydala Monastery. Count Per Brahe the Younger became the owner of Röttle village in 1641. He invested in expanding water power, and an industrial area was established with various workshops along the stream, including a weapons forge. There were rope-making stamp mills, gunpowder mills, blacksmith shops, polishing mills, and drill mills. A paper mill was established and operated from 1646 to 1879. In the ravine, traces of old foundations and dams are visible. Two mills still exist. On the west side of the stream is Jerusalems kvarn, likely with medieval parts in the building. 150 meters upstream is Rasmus kvarn, whose building from the 1650s was initially a drill mill for manufacturing muskets but was converted into a flour mill around 1700. The mill was restored in 1977 and operates with water wheel power. The settlement consists of red-painted, old-fashioned, timbered cottages and duplexes, one or two stories high, from the 1700s and 1800s. Down by the stream’s outlet into Lake Vättern is Röttle harbor with the steamboat dock where steamboats docked until the 1930s. Mill tours can be booked through Grenna Museum. Rest areas are arranged, and there are hiking trails through Röttle. The area is a nature reserve with hiking trails. https://jonkopingslansmuseum.se/se-och-gora/smultronstallen/jonkoping/rottle-by/. They had a large parking area with a path that led downhill to the river. There is a few docks and another path that takes you along the river to a waterfall. It was a peaceful place this time of year but I imagine it’s a bit busier during the spring/summer. There is a really nice looking hotel on the site as well that appears to be converted from a castle. The last stop of the day was Vist the Giant which was completed in 1969 and standing over 11 metres (36 ft) high next to the European route E4, at Huskvarna. According to the legend, the giant was on the way home from a party in Västergötland. He threw some grass and soil into lake Vättern for his wife to step on, thus creating the island Visingsö.[2][3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calle_%C3%96rnemark
We finally headed into Jonkoping and found Hotel Vox. It is a really nice hotel. We booked the cheaper rooms called the “Smart Plus- windowless”. I will warn you, these rooms are in the basement and the corridor has a very Shining type feel. The hall feels like it’s endless. The rooms are super small and there is minimal room to even walk around the bed. If you are claustraphobic then I’d recommend passing on this class of rooms. We dropped our bags and headed out to the pedestrian street outside the hotel. We headed back to have dinner in the restaurant: beef tartar, lamb meatballs with pureed potatoes and chocolate terrin for dessert. Everything was delicious. We had 20% off due to my Gold status on hotels.com so with 2 beers, 1 hard cider, appetizer, 2 entrees and 1 dessert it cost about $90USD with a 10% tip included. It was also our best service and “fanciest” restaurant of the trip. I was very impressed. Next, we headed to the room and were able to cast to the TV a movie off Amazon and went to bed.
March 2:
We woke up, had breakfast at the hotel: this spread was the most lux of them all. It had so many options including gluten free, non dairy, etc.. We hit the road for the trek back to Copenhagen. The first stop was Hallsjö kyrkoruin, located in Strömsund Municipality, Jämtland, Sweden, is a medieval church ruin dating back to the 14th century. It served as the parish church until the late 18th century when a new church was built in Strömsund. The ruin features typical medieval stone architecture and is preserved as a historical site. It offers insight into medieval religious practices and Swedish ecclesiastical history, making it an important cultural landmark. It consisted of a shell of a building with pews set up and a large cross. It was a very short hike from the road and a cool little stop, if you like history.
We headed further south and stopped at: “Sagobygden: Skatten i Högårör” is a cultural heritage site in Kronoberg County, southern Sweden, known for its rich storytelling traditions. Part of Sagobygden, a UNESCO Creative City of Literature, Högårör is famed for legends about hidden treasures. The area promotes the preservation of local folklore through storytelling events, guided tours, and festivals, offering visitors an immersive experience into the region’s mythical heritage. We didn’t venture in the store/coffee shop to see about tours but we did wander around the ruins. It was another really quick stop and they had a parking lot right by the site. If you continue a bit further south you will hit a town called Hamneda which has a few points of interest: Kronogården gamla tomt is a historical site located in Sweden. It represents an old settlement area with archaeological significance. The site includes remnants of ancient buildings and artifacts that provide insights into the region’s past inhabitants and their way of life. It is a place of interest for history enthusiasts and archaeologists, showcasing Sweden’s historical heritage. In the same town is: Hamneda kyrka is a historic church located in Hamneda, in the Kronoberg County of southern Sweden. Dating back to the medieval period, it features traditional architectural elements and has undergone several restorations over the centuries. The church is notable for its historical significance and its role in the local community’s religious life. It is a point of interest for visitors exploring the region’s ecclesiastical heritage. Finally, just down the street is: The ruins of Hamneda Church, located in Hamneda, Kronoberg County, southern Sweden, are the remnants of a medieval church that once served the local community. These ruins provide a glimpse into the region’s ecclesiastical history and architectural styles of the period. The site is of historical and archaeological interest, attracting visitors who are keen to explore Sweden’s medieval heritage and the evolution of its religious structures. All these stops are very quick with easy parking. None are worth going really far out of the way to see but certainly broke up our drive a little bit.
Along our route we stopped at restuarant at Paris, Barcelona & Friends in a small town called Markaryd. This place was a wild contradiction. It was located behind an apartment building. We almost didn’t find it because it just seemed so strange. We walked in and the place was basic and the ambiance was plain. We were the only people in the restaurant. We were greeted by the owner and chef. He was nice and welcoming. Next came the 3 course meal. It was by far the fanciest meal we’ve had but the price was average. The chef/owner told us that the menu changes daily and that the evening is a lot more lively. It was 100% worth a stop if you are in the area. It was such a delicious meal. That ended our time in Sweden since our next stop was the same hotel we stayed at on the first day in Copenhagen. Of note, the bridge to Copenhagen was super foggy and viability was minimal. We were not met with any form of border control and just entered Sweden which was a diverse change from entering Sweden. After we arrived to the hotel, we decided to check out: Christiania, or Freetown Christiania, is an autonomous neighborhood in Copenhagen, Denmark, established in 1971 by hippies in a former military area. It is known for its alternative lifestyle, vibrant arts scene, and communal living. The area operates independently from Danish law, with decisions made by consensus. Famous for its colorful murals and unique architecture, Christiania is a popular tourist spot. It has faced challenges, particularly regarding its open cannabis trade, and continues to negotiate its status with the Danish government. It was a bit wild. They have a lot of areas that are clearly marked with no cameras, no pictures and no filming. These are the areas where you can buy various items that may not otherwise be legal. The entire area is covered in grafitti and art. It is nice to just walk around and see the art. It has all kinds of people from sketchy looking, to locals to curious tourists and everything in-between. The people watching itself is worth the visit. There are vendors on the streets selling all kinds of items with a heavy emphasis on cannabis related items. Plus there are restaurants and bars to spend a bit of time checking out. It does have a strong aroma of cannabis so if you don’t tolerate that well, then maybe you should skip this area. We headed back to the hotel early as we had to wake up at 3:30 to head to the airport to drop the car and catch our flight.
Sweden Observations:
Overall, I loved my experience and would perhaps go back to check out the Northern part of the country. It wasn’t feasible with this trip since we had reservations at the wind tunnel and the 2 day break wasn’t long enough to get up there and back: train, car or flight was too close for the investment as the windtunnel is pricy. We missed out on Northern lights due to the cloudy weather and snow but we also knew this was a long shot. The people were friendly enough and most spoke English, at least enough to get by. The gas was similar to the rest of Europe. The car rental was fairly expensive because we got conned into “snow tires” as the lady said that they would be required if the temperature got below a certain amount in Sweden. Driving across the border was easy with the rental car but be advised that Sweden breathalyzes you upon entry. Sweden has very strict drinking laws and alcohol can only be purchased outside of bars/restaurants inside government stores. The food ranges and you can find meals for $15 for a large portion if you look for it. The average meal is about $30 per person and although we didn’t do fine dining, we did spend $50-60/person on a couple meals. Their shopping malls are crazy compared to American malls which seem to be dying. I would highly recommend checking them out for the experience. They have grocery stores, the government liquor store, nice restaurants and food courts. They of course have clothing stores and I always shop for athletic/outdoor clothing when in this part of Europe. The clothing is similarly priced to the US but the quality is higher. If you plan to be in Stockholm for at least 24 hours then I do highly recommend the GoCity pass, it was well worth the money.